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Most hamsters do not need any assistance in their grooming. If you have a short-haired hamster, your grooming requirements are quite low. Long-haired hamsters may need some assistance.

Never wash your hamster with water and shampoo. Washing your hamster (or even simply getting him wet) can cause illness and should be avoided, even if you use warm water and immediately dry him with a towel. (Using a hair dryer is an even worse option – you could burn your pet! Even if you do not burn him, you could cause him an astronomical amount of stress simply from the noise a hair dryers produce – hamsters do not like noise.)

If your pet has gotten something sticky on his coat, he can usually handle this by grooming himself, although it may take some time. If he gets too much bedding or other material in his fur, he may require assistance. With a small pair of scissors (no larger than those used for trimming a person's fingernails), carefully remove the sticky or matted fur. You may want to have one person hold your pet while you use the scissors. Take great care not to cut or injure your pet.

You can also spot-clean the area with a warm, damp (not soaking wet) washcloth and only clean the affected area. Dry the area quickly with a paper towel or dry cloth. If your hamster gets extremely agitated, wait for a bit before proceeding further. Even if you only remove some of the material, it might be enough and your pet can do the rest. You don't want to put undue stress on your hamster.

Hamsters spend a lot of time grooming themselves – up to 20 percent of their day is spent on grooming. They will go over every inch – washing the face, then ears, hands, feet and toes – until they are completely clean. Dwarf hamsters will even groom each other – especially in places that are hard to reach for the one being groomed. A hamster that cannot or does not keep himself clean is probably sick and should be seen by a veterinarian.

The nails of a hamster grow constantly, just like your own. Trimming your hamster's nails is not usually necessary, unlike some pets (such as rabbits and guinea pigs) that do require regular trimming for optimum health. Most hamsters will chew their own nails in order to keep them short. Hamster nails can be sharp, but you should rarely notice them, even if you handle you pet often.

If you do feel your pet needs to have his nails trimmed (for example, if they are getting caught in carpeting or the wire mesh on a cage floor), then it is best to take the hamster to a vet and let the veterinarian do so. Hamsters are very wiggly and squirmy, making nail trimming difficult. Hamsters must be restrained during the nail trimming process, and you do not want your hamster to associate you with this unpleasant process.

Dust baths are also something you can provide for your hamster as a part of his grooming. You can use chinchilla dust and provide a shallow container for this purpose.

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Exercise is important for hamsters, just like it is for humans. Daily exercise is a major factor in the continued good health of your pet. Daily exercise can help prevent conditions such as obesity, diabetes and heart failure.

Syrian (or golden, teddy bear) hamsters have different activity cycles than dwarf hamsters. Syrians are nocturnal, meaning they sleep during the day and the are active all night. Dwarf hamsters are usually crepuscular, meaning that they are active in the early morning and early evening, with periods of sleeping in between.

There are many options for getting your hamster the proper amount of exercise.

Hamster wheels are the most popular option, and they are a convenient way to let a hamster run to his heart's content in his own housing area. There are different types of wheels, such as plastic and metal, free standing and those that attach to the side of the cage. You can find many varieties at your local pet supply store or retailer. If you have questions, ask a salesperson or search the Internet.

Exercise balls are specifically designed for hamsters and allow your pet to roam around the room or even the whole house and do plenty of running. Exercise balls can be found in local pet supply stores and also some chain retail stores. They are made of clear plastic and have air holes provided for ventilation. There are also exercise balls that come designed to look like a car or other vehicle, but that is for the amusement of the owner and does not have any effect on the hamster.

Some hamster owners allow their pets to run around the house without the aid of an exercise ball. They might wall off a section of the floor or a counter and allow the hamster to roam freely. This is not a safe decision and can cause great harm to your pet if he is accidentally stepped on or brushed off of a counter. There are also health concerns from letting your pet run along counters that are used for food preparation. Hamsters can also chew on carpeting, which can contain chemicals that are harmful to hamsters. Hamsters can also ingest paint, wood and other household materials when allowed to roam freely. Using a special container designed for hamsters is the best option.

Handling your hamster can be another option for getting your hamster to exercise. Learn the times when your hamster is most active and try to play with your pet then, not waking him up when you want to play. Hamsters are notoriously cranky when awakened and will not be responsive to your attempts to play if he would rather sleep.

Allow your pet to crawl over your hands and body while you are seated or lying down. Do not let your pet crawl on your shoulder or arms when you are standing – a fall from that height could seriously injure your hamster.

Children can also play with a hamster and provide exercise, but adult supervision should be provided.

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Hamsters do not have dental issues very often, but if they do, they need the care of a veterinarian. Prevention is often the best way to handle dental issues with your pet.

Malocclusion is a condition when a hamster's incisor teeth are overgrown or are misaligned, resulting in having teeth that do not meet or align properly. This condition can be hereditary, or it can be the result of trauma, infection or an improper diet. (Feeding a hamster a steady diet of soft foods will result in this condition – he needs foods hard enough to wear his teeth down.) It is difficult to detect this condition in young hamsters, so even with a visual inspection before you purchase a hamster, the condition could manifest later in life. The teeth can appear normal when young, then become misaligned as the hamster matures.

Hamsters with condition are, eventually, not able to eat. They suffer weight loss and die of starvation if not treated. Aside from weight loss, look for threads of saliva around the mouth (sometimes wiped with the front paws) – a symptom usually referred to as slobbers. If you notice these symptoms, you can check the teeth by pulling back the lips.

This condition is easily treated by a qualified veterinarian. There are two types of treatment generally used. The first is to clip the teeth while the hamster is awake. This procedure does not always produce favorable long-term results, and can also cause other problems to occur. An incisor can split or break, leaving jagged edges. If the break goes to the gum line, it will cause pain and possibly allow bacteria to enter, possibly resulting in a painful abscess. Jagged edges on the teeth can injure the hamster's mouth and lips, possibly allowing bacteria to enter, and certainly causing discomfort and pain.

The second, and preferred, method is to use a high-speed drill. Using a drill leaves a smooth surface and avoids the issues sometimes caused with clipping. Most veterinarians currently use this method.

The best cure for dental issues is a healthy dose of prevention. Make sure your hamster has food that is appropriate for hamsters. This will include pellets that are hard enough to wear down the enamel of his teeth.

Chew toys (specially made for hamsters) can also be used. These are usually made of wood and other materials that are safe for hamsters to chew. (Do not use just any type of wood you find for your hamster. Certain types of wood can be bad for your hamsters health. Pieces of wood you find around the house or outside may contain chemicals, parasites, insects or nails, or they might splinter and possibly cause injury if ingested. Hamster toys are specifically made to avoid these issues.)

Periodic visual inspection of your hamster's mouth can catch problems early and provide the best chance of successful treatment. If you have any concerns, it is best to err on the side of caution and consult your veterinarian.

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As you probably already know, hamsters do things a lot differently than humans do. They sleep during the day. They have babies quickly. They use their tongues to bathe. They run in wheels. For hours. And hours. But here is something you might not know.

Your hamster has to eat his own poop in order to survive.

You see, small animals (like hamsters and rabbits) are hindgut fermenters. This means they digest much of their food in the cecum (which is located where the large intestine and the small intestine meet. It is in about the same location as the appendix in humans.) (Cows also have to digest food a second time, but they do this by chewing their cud, which is brought back up from the stomach, not passed through the body and eliminated.

Beneficial micro flora ( bacteria and protozoa) live in the hamster's digestive tract and help your pet digest food. These micro flora produce by-products such as water-soluble vitamins and amino acids, which are necessary for the hamster to survive. The nutrients that are produced add a great deal to a hamster's balanced diet.

Some of the nutrients that are produced are absorbed directly into the hamster's digestive tract. However, some of these nutrients are not available to the hamster unless he consumes special droppings that contain the special nutrients manufactured by the micro flora. The consumption of these special droppings is called coprophagy.

Sometimes called night feces, the soft feces containing this nutritional material that the hamster eliminates is often eaten directly from the anus, so you will probably never see these droppings.

The droppings that you normally see in the bottom of your hamster's housing area are a different type, and they are often hard. These are not of any nutritional value to your pet, so they are simply kept in the same spot that other waste is kept. Consumption of these types of droppings could lead to illness due to harmful bacteria in urine and bedding. (Do not worry – your hamster can tell the difference and will not consume the wrong type.) The droppings left when a hamster is frightened or stressed are also of no nutritional value and not consumed.

Hamsters generally participate in this activity during the night or early morning hours, so you may not even see this happen, but some concerned hamster owners have become alarmed after seeing this process. It is a perfectly natural activity and is crucial for the good health of your pet. Do not be alarmed if you see your hamster engaging in this necessary behavior. Do not disrupt them in this process, because this can cause stress and poor nutrition. Stress is a major factor in causing illness and disease in hamsters, and nutrition is important in prevention of illness, as well.

Although it might be a practice you find nauseating, it is perfectly natural for your pet, and digesting food for a second time is crucial for his continued good health.

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Hamsters are very low-maintenance pets, unlike ferrets, dogs, cats and rabbits. This makes them perfect for people with active and busy lifestyles. They can be left alone during the day and not miss you a bit. (More than likely, they will have been sleeping all day, anyway.) They can even be left for a weekend, provided they have enough food and water. (Cleaning the cage before you go away for a few days is a good idea, too.) They do not get stressed or upset when left alone for the day or even a few days, so they don't hold a grudge. The fact that they are contained in a cage or aquarium lets you rest assured that they will not be destructive while you are gone, either. The fact that hamsters can survive quite well, even if left alone for a few days, make them great pets for children – who might “forget” their pet for a day or two.

With all of that being said, hamsters do require some basic care. They require basic cage cleaning and feeding, but they do not require a lot of time outside of their cage. They can actually be kept inside of their housing area full-time, provided they have a large living space and have access to a wheel and other opportunities to exercise. (Please note that high climbing is not required or recommended for hamsters. They are ground dwellers, and their poor eyesight makes it difficult to judge heights well.)

Here are some care guidelines:

Clean your hamster's living area (meaning remove all bedding and replace it with fresh bedding) at least once per week. In between full cleanings you may simply remove the bedding from the area your hamster uses for waste elimination and replace that section of bedding. Once a month, remove all bedding and wash out the cage or aquarium, taking care to disinfect it with a weak bleach solution. (You can use a solution of one tablespoon of bleach per one gallon of water.) Make sure you do not wait until you notice an odor to clean your hamsters cage – this is not healthy for your pet, and it is not pleasant for anyone near your pet.

Hamsters are natural hoarders and will stockpile food, so you cannot really overfeed them. Make sure you give them fresh food after you clean their living area. Check periodically to see that they have not run out of food, as this will stress your pet. Fresh produce and other fresh food you give need to be removed from the housing area within 24 hours, or it will begin to spoil. Do not give fresh foods just prior to leaving for a few days – it might spoil while you are gone.

Water bottles should always have plenty of fresh water. Make sure you completely clean the water bottle (inside and out) at least once per week. Use a bottle brush (found with infant supplies in stores – use the ones designed for baby bottles) and dish washing detergent to clean it. Bacteria can build up inside the water bottle if not properly cleaned, which can lead to illness. If the water bottle is damaged or leaks, replace it immediately – wet bedding and food can be a nasty, smelly mess and can also lead to stress and illness for your pet.

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Hamsters are very fragile creatures, so great care should be given when you are handling your pet. Because they are so quick and are prone to leaping at an unexpected moment, you should be cautious about holding your hamster when standing. Kids should be warned about the unpredictability of hamsters and how they can leap when they feel anxious or squeezed. Sitting while handling your pet is a good first defense against broken bones and internal injuries.

Hamster exercise balls are also another source of broken bones in hamsters. If you have your pet rolling around in one of these hollow plastic balls, make sure he is away from stairs and steps. Also make sure he is not somewhere that someone could accidentally kick the ball and send your poor pet flying across a room. It is best to keep your hamster in one room of the house (preferably away from other family members) whenever he is in his exercise ball. If he must be in other parts of the house, make sure you let other family members know that your pet is out and rolling around.

Hamsters that are given free reign around the house are quite likely to be accidentally kicked or stepped on, which can also lead to broken bones. Hamsters face other hazards (such as ingesting paint, carpet, wood chips and other materials) when allowed to roam freely, so this is not a recommended way to let your pet exercise. Allowing a pet room to roam also makes him vulnerable to being attacked by other pets.

If your hamster does suffer from a fall or other injury resulting in a broken bone, he needs to be seen by a veterinarian. Hamsters can suffer internal injuries from a fall and must be seen immediately to help prevent a fatality.

The good news is that hamsters will heal quickly with a broken bone if treated properly. Here are some tips to help make your hamster's recovery quicker and more pleasant.

Take away exercise wheels and other exercise equipment from your pet's housing area. Do not have anything inside of the housing area that could encourage exercise or climbing.

If you have a cage with multiple levels (which is not recommended for hamsters anyway), remove the upper levels if at all possible. Hamsters can fall from the upper levels and cause even further injury. The best choice for housing a hamster is a cage or other container that provides lots of floor space, not lots of height.

Add more calcium to his diet - such as cheese. This will help speed the recovery process and will be a treat for your hamster, too. You can also feed him bread soaked in milk (small pieces) and high-calcium dog biscuits. Extra calcium will help the bones heal much more quickly.

Keep your pet in a quiet place, away from other hamsters and the noise of the house. Keeping your hamster stress-free will help speed up the healing process.

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Understanding and responding appropriately to your hamster's body language will help you be more sensitive to the moods of your pet and will also help you have a more enjoyable friendship with him. Recognizing certain signs in body language can also aid in the taming process with your hamster. You do not want to continue handling or playing with your hamster if he is showing signs of stress or fear.

Body language can also help you understand if there is an issue between hamsters housed in the same cage or aquarium. If you can recognize the signs, you can prevent serious injury or death to the weaker, less dominant hamster.

One way you can tell if your pet is nervous or fearful is if he begins to wash his face. This is a sign that your hamster is stressed and is trying to perform a habitual activity in order to calm himself. (Think of it as the hamster equivalent of playing with your hair.)

Some hamsters will urinate or defecate when frightened or when they feel threatened. This can cause a bit of disgust when the hamster is being held by the owner! If your hamster gets this frightened, return him to his housing area immediately (but gently) and speak softly to him to try to calm him down.

Your hamster may also flatten himself close to the ground or cage floor or attempt to run away. This often happens when first trying to tame your hamster and your pet is not used to being held. It can also happen when you wake your hamster up in order to play. He can and will try to make it more difficult for you to pink him up by becoming as close to the ground (or cage floor) as possible. If this happens, do not attempt to pick him up or to hold him – this is not a good time. If you continue to try to pick him up, you risk stressing him further, and stress is not good for the health of a hamster. Instead, offer him a treat and speak softly. Try again later, when he is not as upset.

Biting is an obvious sign that this is not a good time to play with your hamster. Again, this often happens when you are first trying to tame your hamster, but is can happen anytime. (As a side note, if a normally docile hamster begins to consistently bite and be aggressive, you should look for signs of illness or pregnancy – this could be indicative that things are not right with your pet. If it is just an occasional incident, chalk it up to your pet having a bad day.)

Hamsters are not usually very social animals, and even hamsters from the same littler raised together will fight, often with lots of squeaks and noise. It is important to look for signs of extreme mistreatment in hamster groups because hamsters can and do severely injure each other sometimes even to the point of death. If you notice a hamster that cowers in one spot while the others are feeding and playing, this might be a sign that he is the submissive member of the group. Check the hamster for injuries. If it continues, you should remove the less dominant hamster for his own safety. The others might be unwilling to let him eat.

In conclusion, checking body language is a great way to be more “in tune” with the needs of your pet, and can be crucial to their health and well-being.

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Ideally you will choose a veterinarian before you even bring your pet home, but that is not always an option. At the very least, choose a veterinarian for your hamster before your pet becomes ill. Hamsters do not need annual checkups and vaccinations like other pets do (which is one of the benefits of owning a hamster as a pet), however, hamsters can die very quickly from an illness, so time will be of the essence if your pet hamster becomes sick. Choosing a vet before you need one could save your pet's life.

Even if you already have a vet for your dog or cat, you may not want to bring your hamster to him or her. Not all veterinarians are qualified to treat small mammals, and some actually refuse to treat them.

You may not think of your cute little hamster as an “exotic” pet, but that is the type of vet you wish to seek – most veterinarians consider anything that is not a dog or cat an “exotic” animal. Small mammals such as hamsters require specialized equipment and training, so you don't want to convince your dog or cat's vet to see your little pet just because you like the way he or she cares for your other pets.

You can find your hamster's vet in a variety of ways. One way is to check your local phone book. Call the vets who advertise that they treat exotic animals and see if you like what you hear. Searching the web is another option. Again, if you find a vet whose listing you like, call him or her and ask questions.

Word of mouth is by far the best way to find a vet for your hamster. Ask several sources, such as the local pet shops, local breeders, local hamster club members, and friends who have a vet for their small pet. If you hear the same name more than once, that is a good start.

Once you have narrowed your list down to a few names, you need to ask some questions, such as how long they have been treating hamsters; what types of common conditions do they see in hamsters; do they recommend annual checkups for small animals; what are their fees; how do they handle emergency situations, and so on. Find out office hours and on call procedures. Inquire about how payment is handled, both for emergency and non-emergency visits. Find out if there is more than one veterinarian on staff – if not, then you might not be able to see your vet right away in an emergency. After all, no one can be on call 24/7, right?

If you are not comfortable with any of their answers, contact the next person on your list. If you like what you hear, pay a visit to the vet's office. Look for a clean facility with friendly staff and happy patients. (Well, as happy as the pets can be, since they are probably sick, but the owners should be happy.)

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In order to properly take care of your hamster, it is important to address the changing needs of your pet as he ages. The needs of the senior hamster are quite different than the needs of young hamsters or pregnant females.

Hamsters have an average lifespan of 2 to 3 years. This means that when a hamster is aged 15 to 18 months, he is considered to be middle-aged. A hamster who is over the age of 2 is considered to be a senior hamster.

Senior hamsters are more susceptible to illness than younger hamsters. Keeping his living area clean is always important and a key to maintaining good health, but as your hamster ages it becomes even more crucial to make sure you clean his cage at least once per week. Instead of doing a thorough disinfecting and washing of your pet's cage once a month, you might want to consider doing it every 2 or 3 weeks in order to prevent disease-causing organisms from reaching a critical level.

As your hamster gets older, you might notice changes in activity levels and behavior. This is normal and not a cause for concern unless you notice other signs of illness or that your pet is in pain. If you notice that your senior pet is ill, notify your pet's veterinarian right away.

Older hamsters can develop painful joints as they age. If it seems like your pet is having difficulty moving, make sure that you remove anything from the living area that might be used for climbing, as this might be frustrating for your pet.

Cataracts can develop in some older hamsters, and this will cause the eye to look milky. Eventually it can cause blindness, but this does not need to affect the hamster's quality of life, and most hamsters do not seem to be discouraged by this development. (Hamsters are extremely nearsighted anyway and can only see for a few inches in front of them, even when they are younger.)

Older hamsters can develop problems with their teeth, which can interfere with eating. Check your pet's teeth from time to time to see if the incisors still meet properly. If they do not, this is a condition called malocclusion and can lead to death by starvation. A veterinarian can treat this condition.

Senior can also have teeth that become more fragile. This can also lead to weight loss and starvation. If you think that your hamster has an issue with this, try offering soft foods such as cereals, pasts and rice.

Hamsters also have thinning fur as they age. Be sure to provide plenty of warm bedding so that they do not become chilled. You can even provide special nesting material (sold in pet stores) that is designed to provide a warm area to sleep.

Finally, take care not to introduce new hamsters to your older pet. Not only are older hamsters less likely to accept a new hamster, they could be mistreated by or contract an illness from the newcomer.

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Whether you have had babies intentionally or came home from the store with a pregnant female, knowing how to care for baby hamsters is an important part of being a responsible pet owner.

The first thing to remember is that the mother does not need your help and she can have babies all on her own. You don't need to coach her on breathing or fetch hot mater. Just let nature take its course.

Even though you want to look and touch the babies, make sure you do not disturb the mother or babies for at least 10 days – preferably 2 weeks or so. If you touch the babies or upset the mother, the mother can abuse, neglect, abandon or even eat her little ones. The only thing you need to do for 10 to 14 days is to provide fresh food and water. Nothing else. Do not change bedding or clean the cage unless it is a dire emergency (such as if a water bottle leaks and wets a large portion of the housing area. If the bedding gets wet, it can become moldy and unsanitary – which can also upset the mother hamster and cause her to not be a good mother to her litter. If you must do some cleaning, do a spot cleaning using a clean kitty litter scoop.

Provide mom with extra protein while she is nursing. You can add bits of hard-boiled egg and cooked chicken in addition to her regular diet. Making sure she has good nutrition will help make sure she does not hurt her babies. Poor nutrition for new mothers can cause stress for the mother hamster, and this can cause her to neglect or eat her babies.

Provide mom with nice, warm, bedding material - such as strips of toilet paper or specially manufactured bedding available commercially – so the mother can provide a warm nest for her litter.

If you have an absolute emergency and you have no choice but to move the babies, use a clean, dry spoon to scoop them out and do not touch them under any circumstances. If you get your scent on the baby, the mother will more than likely cannibalize the poor baby.

Do not use a dish to provide water for the babies. They can nurse until they are big enough to drink from a water bottle bottle. Using a dish for water could cause a baby to stumble into the water dish and drown. (Hamster babies are born with their eyes shut and cannot see until they open, but they can wander around some before they can see.)

Finally, make sure you separate the males from the females shortly after they are weaned; otherwise you will have several more litters to raise. Syrian hamsters can breed as young as 45 days old. Dwarf hamsters can begin to breed at around 60 to 135 days. Aside from the fact that having multiple litters can be costly, frustrating and exasperating, females that have litters too soon are usually not very good mothers. They need time to mature before breeding.

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